Ocracoke Island by Ferry

Southernmost island in the Outer Banks. Free 60-minute ferry from Hatteras, Pamlico Sound on one side and Atlantic on the other, dolphins riding the wake. The village at the south end: clapboard houses, a white lighthouse (second oldest in the US, 1823), commercial fishing boats beside pleasure craft. No chains, no traffic lights.

Eduardo's Taco Stand — converted house with walk-up window — serves fish tacos from whatever came off the boats that morning. Quality disproportionate to setting. Ocracoke Beach: sixteen miles of undeveloped National Seashore. On a weekday in October, walk a mile without seeing another person.

The Hatteras ferry is free but summer lines are long — arrive early. Swan Quarter and Cedar Island ferries from the mainland require reservations, 2.5 hours. Bring bikes — the island is flat. One gas station. Plan accordingly.